LADAKH DIARY : PART 1 - MANALI LEH ROAD

“It’s breathtakingly beautiful” – I told my friends as soon as I reached Leh after the spectacular journey of 473 Kms on the Manali - Leh road. Being fed up of the rush hour traffic to office and back and having lived all along in an urban set up, this “big trip” gave me all the thrill and excitement which I could not dream existed. The road clings and wriggles through some of the most spectacular terrain in the world- crossing four high passes, fords, streams and clings to tumbling mountain surfaces!
Our journey started from Manali on a cold rainy morning. Being my first trip up north, every road - ascent upwards unfolded a lot of surprises- the omnipresent apple trees with “red juicy” apples, the streams which gently flow down the tall mountains creating numerous waterfalls, the green carpet of trees and plants in the valley, the clouds which gently seem to caress the mountain peaks was a “visual” poetry.
Our car slowly climbed towards the snow-capped Rohthang Pass only to wait behind a “km long” pile up of cars due to a “mud slide”. We had a long journey ahead as the plan was to stay overnight as Sarchu which is approximately 150 KMs from Rohthang. Employees from BRO (Border Road Organization) were summoned from Manali to help clear the “mud slide” and when our car cleared this hurdle, we had lost about 2 hours of precious time.
Having had breakfast at Marhi, our journey resumed towards Sarchu. The journey beyond Rothang was suddenly silent- the only noise we could hear was the air rushing against the mountain or the tip – tap of the melting snow or the screech of the car tyre on the road - the road was sometimes “cemented”, sometimes a “patch of mud” or sometimes “a path thro a running stream”. Very soon the green valleys and mountains were replaced by shred of brown and rust and the snow peaks lingered in the background. Driving along the Bhaga River and listening to its different notes transformed me into a different world.
Post Thandi and Jispa, we began our ascent again towards Baralacha la which is at about 16500 ft. The journey was an absolute delight- beautiful and pristine Suraj tal lake and the winding snow capped roads , the low hung clouds with sun breaking in between and creating a beautiful rainbow, I could not just take my eyes off the road- wished I had a 360 degree vision. Barlacha la was white sheet spread out in every direction and made me sway between dream and reality!
Sarchu is where we find tents pitched in the pristine valley of the mighty mountains…for a city bred person, having to stay and sleep amid these mountains and listening to the noise of the winds and the gentle noise of the rain/dew/snow on the tent was a surreal experience. The altitude, the strange yet beautiful surroundings kept me awake the whole night at Sarchu - Even the sun did not miss out on the beauty of this wonderful place and he was up and running at about 4.30 am and I was ready for the second day’s trip by 6 am.


Along side the road from Sarchu, we cross the river Tsarap Chu which has created canyon like structures in the mountains, all along its course. The road begins to climb again – notice stalactites of ice hang precariously on the rocky overhangs on the road. Past Nakee la and Lachlung la Pass notice the terrain becomes desert like and we enter the vast plains surrounded by mountains. We find ourselves in a “wild west” set up where we see rocky outcrops, natural arches and steep rocks on the tall mountains. Our final climb is towards Tanglang la, which is over 17000 ft. As soon as we start our descent towards Leh, we find ourselves accompanied by “Indus” river, which flows all along till Leh. The mountains suddenly become more colourful and we find shades of red, amber, violet and brown. The Indus brings with it more life and green and we find ourselves driving in a multi coloured tunnel. We now get a glimpse of “gompas” on hilltops and the mountain air seems to carry with it soothing “Buddhist chants”. The road towards Leh becomes more desert like and we notice “white chortems (stupas)” in various places on the road. The army camps make an appearance and the road is now “alive” with long convoys of army vehicles which are moving towards Leh and Kargil. After Upshi, Karu, Thiksey and we enter Leh

As I sip tea in a café in leh, I could not help but recall the beautiful moments on the road- the memory of this drive will lingers along for years after the road has gone- It’s an experience of a lifetime!

TRAVEL TIPS
a) This trip is not for faint hearted. You really need to rough it out on the treacherous roads. So be prepared mentally and physically!!
b) Remember that you will be driving from a height of 6000 ft in Manali to close to 18000 in Tanglang La. Acclimatization is the key. Else, AMS - Acute Mountain Sickness - is likely to hit you at these heights. Most of the cases will be mild and result in nausea, headaches, sleeplessness. http://www.nlm.nih.gov/medlineplus/ency/article/000133.htm
c) Though the trip can be done in two days, we recommend doing it in three days with overnight stay in Keylong and Pang. This will help one acclimatize better and fit and raring to go once you reach Leh.
d) Driving in hills takes more time and speeds are drastically reduced as road condition is not good. Always have buffer time to allow delays due to land slides and flooding of roads. Land slides are particularly common between Manali and Rohtang.
e) Doing the trip in three days will also help you stop and savour the beauty around. This will also give you time to take a detour to Tso Kar a beautiful lake in wilderness closer to Moreh Plains.
f) Our advise is to hire the local transport to do the trip. The roads are narrow and bad. The driver will not be able to enjoy the ride as his eyes will be fixed on the road. We have seen bikers on the road and we do not advise unless you are interested in adventure alone. Believe us; the guy who drives the vehicle - bike or car - will not be able to enjoy the drive.
g) Fill up fuel in Manali and carry supplies in Jerry cans. There is only one petrol bunk in Thandi and if it runs out of stock you will curse yourself. Diesel may be available in "black" at exorbitant cost but getting petrol will be difficult.
h) Follow the golden rule of hill driving. Start early and reach early!
i) Carry enough memory cards for your pictures. There is so much to click that you will regret if haven’t had these chips.
j) Eat less and don’t overfill yourself while driving in hills. Drink lot of water.
k) Carry a good medicine kit. Talk to your family doctor and take necessary medicines.
l) Do not exert and run around in high altitude. Oxygen content in atmosphere is 30 - 40 percent lesser in these areas and will make you tired and sick. Do not stay for more than 10 minutes in passes above 15000 ft
m) Carry a good Binocular
n) Pack your long johns and woolens. You require them at these tented camps where the temperatures fall to 5 deg
o) Ensure that you have the complete vehicle accessories and kit. If self driving, practice trouble shooting techniques and become confident. Carry a good map of the area.
p) Dal – Chawal, maggi and Omellettes are staple food you get in dhabhas on the way. Don’t expect anything more!
q) If possible try and plan your drive during full moon day period. You will possibly see the brightest moon ever in these rarified and unpolluted areas at night in tented camps.
r) Do not rely too much on your cell phone. It may not work most of the time.
s) Do not sleep on the journey. You will regret having missed on some of the outstanding sceneries in the world.
t) Lastly, if you get stuck up anywhere and find an army camp close by, go in and take their help. These great guys will never say NO.